Thursday, November 21, 2013

Eccentric Travel Partner



On a flight from San Francisco to Houston recently I boarded early and sat curled up in the window seat reading my book, in peace. Until a loud mouthed woman wearing a pink peak cap, swinging a huge patchwork teddy bear sat down beside me saying "and I have the pleasure of sitting next to you, do I?" Which forced a polite smile out of me. And a forced admiration of the teddy, a gift for her great-granddaughter whose baptism ceremony was the purpose of this flight.

"You can carry on reading, don't worry about me" she said, settling into her seat, putting teddy between us, balanced on the armrest. Oh Lordie, how will I manage the next three hours? I had been lucky to get an upgrade and was looking forward to some solitude.

Before we took off we were offered a drink. I asked for water. She had a glass of red wine. Soon after takeoff the drinks service began which meant I was drawn out of my book to make eye contact with the flight attendant and in so doing became an unwilling listener to my seat companion. She reminded me of an old acquaintance, Lyona Carne, who I had met in my Jack Russell breeding days. Tall and imposing, Lyona was the President of the Jack Russell club. She could be kind and generous but she was outspoken and told folks exactly what she thought of their dogs. Over the years we grew to like and respect one another, probably because she was also a bridge player and invited me into her weekly bridge circle if one of her regular four couldn’t play. What with doggie adventures and bridge end-plays we had lots to talk about.

Lyona had died very unexpectedly a few years ago and I didn’t want to replace her. But here was her alter ego, funny, brash, downing her red wine with great gusto. She pressed the conversation forward and drew me in. Eighty-two years old, born to a family of twelve children with only five still alive, she’d had a strong Catholic upbringing in Missouri and shocked her family when she divorced her husband after bringing five children into the world. “He was a no- good” she said. “I paid off all his debts, brought up the children on my own working three jobs. I never gave up on him though and even went to his funeral. I wanted to show his family that I respected the father of my children. I worked mainly as a pattern maker, and yes I did make the teddy bear. I was up until 3am last night. I sewed the bag too.” She beamed, reaching forward for the large bag she had made for teddy. It was better than any I’d seen in a store, or had been sent as a gift for making a donation to a charity or NGO, not to mention the bags my husband keeps bringing home from his latest conference. This was a work of art as was the dear teddy. She was growing on me.

Over another glass of wine she told me her name was Veronica and she lived in Oregon near one of her children. On Christmas Eve thirty four years earlier, she was introduced to Alan, owner of a small local store. They clicked immediately and have been together since, but Alan wouldn’t marry her. So, although they have lived together all these years, they sleep in separate rooms and have separate interests. “No sex” she told him. “Not if you won’t marry me.” They own their home together, and share all the costs. But definitely no sex.

“Alan sleeps a lot. I’m a bit worried about him. He is up for about six hours a day and even when he’s up he’s half asleep in front of the TV. I went to the doctor with him recently but the doctor didn’t think there was anything wrong with sleeping eighteen hours a day.”

“Do you think he’s depressed?” I asked. “Well yes, that’s exactly what I thought and I expected the doctor to confirm that, but he didn’t. We don’t really share much these days, Alan and I” she said wistfully. An overpowering image of Alan drowning in her abundant energy swept over me. I began asking the sort of questions psychologists ask. “What drew you to Alan when you first met?” “What did you do together that enlivened your relationship?” “Are you good friends?”

With such personal questions floating in the space between us, I now felt the need for some propping up myself. Veronica had been raving about the red wine, topping up her glass at every opportunity, so I asked the flight attendant for a taste. He brought me a full glass. It was awful. Two sips and I knew I had to give it back. But Veronica was in the throes of telling me about life with Alan and his alcoholism. In the early days, before he gave up drinking, they would have fun together over whiskey and wine but they had no alcohol in the house these days. He loved gardening and it seemed she left him to his garden and TV and he left her to her sewing machine.

The flight attendant was passing so I held out the glass. “Sorry, it was just too much for me.” “Oh, don’t give it back, give it to me” piped up Veronica. I obliged, filling her glass yet again.

She was now in fifth gear, telling me “I shop at Thrift stores. Get all my clothes for next to nothing. Even these,” she swiftly pulled down her t-shirt to reveal her bra with a great flourish and giggle, snapping back her shirt so quickly I wondered “did that actually happen?” She then admired my bracelet and asked if it worked. It was a copper bracelet I had bought in Zambia a long time ago. When I told her I didn’t wear it for arthritis she said she needed one so without really thinking I pulled off my bangle and put it on her wrist. She burst into tears and leant over to hug me.

She confessed all the wine on this flight was a real trip for her. I couldn’t really imagine how someone who could put away so much could do without any at home and I wondered if she was a secret tippler in her sewing room, but I didn’t ask. By now I’d had enough secrets. I made sure she wasn’t going to be stranded in Houston. She was meeting one of her children and hopefully she would nap on the car trip to her grandson’s home where she would meet her first great-grandchild.

We landed shortly afterwards. Veronica stood up straight and tall, gathered teddy and his bag and walked off the plane as if never a sip of wine had passed her lips. She was not going to be my role model. We didn’t exchange contact details. But I left that airport with a spring in my step, energized by her vitality and joie de vivre.