Cape Music and Newlands Forest Hikes

We've been in Cape Town two weeks now yet it feels much longer and I guess that means we have settled into the rhythm of summer in the southern hemisphere. I try to walk on the slopes of Table Mountain, in Newlands forest, early each morning while Tim often bikes to work after breakfast. 

The students arrived ten days ago and the Stanford program is in full swing. We had a very interesting musical "Welcome Dinner" last Saturday at Solms-Delta wine estate, at the Fyndraai restaurant, enjoying the first of their summer concerts. Solms-Delta's farm band played a set followed by a group called Tribal Echo and the students danced up a storm winning four of the five prizes of Cape Jazz Shiraz, a low alcohol bubbly.

Another musical highlight came this week at the Baxter Theatre, the Kalahari Karoo Blues. The incredible David Kramer brought 5 musicians together, two from the Cape, three from Botswana, for a remarkable evening of cross-cultural music. He interspersed each act with video footage of past performers from his Karoo Kitaar Blues show that Tim & I saw a few years ago. Some well known youtubers were on stage; spoon slide guitarist Hannes Coetzee and upside-down guitarist Ronnie Moipolai. One act I was particularly drawn to was the song written by David Kramer, sung by one of the Sonskyn Susters in his band - Calvinia.

On my walk this morning I was reminded of an exceptional encounter I had with my three Jack Russell terriers on the exact trail I still follow today. I wrote about it then, in 1997, and here is what I had to say:

 On a balmy summer day I was taking a carefree walk along the woodcutter's trail when suddenly all three dogs tore uphill, barking furiously. I, not quite as nimble, hurried breathlessly after them and as I drew near noticed their upturned heads, barking at the trees. “Oh no, not all this fuss for squirrels. How annoying” I thought and started sorting through their leashes, planning to attach lines of discipline to their collars. Something made me look up and there in the fork of a tree, a little bit higher than my head and about 15 metres away, a caracal (commonly called lynx) stared right back at me. Panic-stricken, I looked down to grab the dogs. If they were in my arms I would surely be safe. But no, delighted that I now stood guard over their prey, they were hunting other members of this fearsome family. I don’t think I have ever experienced such a mixture of terror, awe and incredulity. I was so close to the path where people walk daily and there I was, face to face (almost) with this secretive and rarely seen wild cat. Miraculously the dogs returned to me, allowed me to quietly attach their leads and walk in docile silence down the hill, back to the car to return to the clatter of civilization.

Returning abruptly to 2013, I no longer walk with dogs but their feisty little terrier spirits are with me as I wander the same trails.

Plastic, Plastic Everywhere

We've been in Cape Town a week now; initially shocked to be jolted right into mid-summer, especially trying to adjust to a 10 hour time change. But, after not too many nights I can hardly remember the cold and rain of the past few months in California.

Our week in Boca Grande with Tim's parents pushed our clocks ahead three hours which helped. As did the weather. Florida is definitely milder than the San Francisco Bay Area, so we had a good transition to summer. During our layover in London we spent the day with Gareth, Naz and Cameron at the Black Horse Inn near Heathrow for a long lazy lunch - four adults, three dogs and a very busy 20 month old baby.

When we picked up our housekeys from a friend we learned that while we were in the air, on our way to Cape Town, a home three roads away from us was burgled. The couple living there were tied up but once the burglars had made off with their loot, the wife managed to untie herself only to discover her husband was dead. He had no injuries so could have had a heart attack or been suffocated. Chilling news so close to the house we rent.

Cape Town always gets me thinking of the environment. When I first arrived in California thirteen years ago I signed up for an Environmental Education class where I learned about waste, water, soil, agriculture, energy, population, advocacy, and more. One day a week for eighteen weeks I'd return home exhausted at the end of each intense learning day. Some of the classes were field trips to farms and nature reserves. Others were in a classroom listening to speakers who were all experts in their field. I was struck in so many ways by how badly we humans treat the planet.

I have never thought of myself as an activist but ever since that course I have been particularly aware of our addiction to plastic and I'm reminded of that every time I enter a South African supermarket where if something isn't already packaged it will get bagged by a determined staffer before you leave the store. Yes, it is possible to recycle but how many people are conscientious and do this? And isn't this placing the onus on the shopper? Shouldn't supermarkets take responsibility for bad packaging practice? Plastic never disappears. It will break down into smaller pieces but will be on our planet forever.

I always feel I am some sort of freak when I say "No plastic bag" in the store. One of the big supermarkets here doesn't weigh produce at the checkout. Instead an employee stands at a scale in the vegetable section weighing and bagging items, whether is is just one item or many. She then ties a firm knot in the bag and sticks a gluey price tag onto the outside. Do you think that bag gets re-cycled, let alone re-used?

One place where plastic ends up is the Great Pacific Garbage patch. In an area of ocean two times the size of Texas, debris circles endlessly, trapped in the North Pacific Gyre, some of it washed ashore onto remote islands in the Pacfic Ocean.

Some interesting watching & reading:
Two Ted Talks on YouTube - Beth Terry - Living Plastic Free & Charles Moore:Sailing the Great Pacific Garbage Patch
Wikipedia definition - The Great Pacific Garbage Patch
Los Angeles Times - Great Pacific Garbage patch a bigger worry than tsunami

If you are reading this take a look next time you're shopping. Be aware of all the plastic and think about where it will go. I know that the small bit I do will not make a significant difference, but it's my personal choice and I hope it sets an example and encourages others to do be more aware. Especially after examining the photo below, the insides of a juvenile albatross.

Plastic in the stomach of a dead albatross

Another End is Nigh

No, not the end of the world according to some misguided interpretation of the Mayan calendar, but the end of another year as 2012 draws to a close. We leave the house on Christmas eve to have dinner in Palo Alto with Tim's daughters and their families. Christmas day we fly to Boca Grande for a week with Tim's parents. And then, New Year's day, we are in the air again bound for a London layover and lunch with Gareth at a nearby Heathrow pub before the flight to Cape Town and another six months in the southern hemisphere.

Travels described in my last blog went well. I meandered about graveyards and searched through deeds registries in Yorkshire, adding all my exciting findings to my bulging family folders.

Also managed some wonderful family time too. First with Gareth, Naz & inquisitive Cameron.

In London for a few days filled with walks in the park, London Zoo, chilling at their home in Earlsfield.

And then my niece Polly's wedding at a game lodge north of Johannesburg. 

Polly McCabe & Chris Kriel making vows at Blaauwpoort chapel near Johannesburg

 Home for October and it sure felt good to have some down time, enjoying friends, hiking our gorgeous trails, and being spoilt with the best music/musicians at the Station House Cafe. But not for long. Nov 2nd saw us at SFO again, this time headed for Boca Grande, Florida to be with Tim's parents for two celebrations. His dad turned 95th on Nov 6th, and late that night we cheered the result of the election of Obama to a second term. The second family celebration on the Florida agenda was Tim's parents 70th wedding anniversary - what a milestone!

After Boca Grande we followed Tim's sister, Cinder, home to spend a few days in Charlottesville, Virginia. I was able to pore through Cinder's archive of family memorabilia and enjoy her photos, putting faces to the many names I'd added to the Stanton family tree. We also enjoyed Cinder's retirement party at Monticello, listening to accolades from her colleagues for all the good work she's done over the years she's worked there. 

The flash on my little camera was a little wimpy, but here's Cinder responding to some lovely remarks about her contribution to Jefferson's Monticello

 From Charlottesville Tim went to do some prep work in Cape Town while I came home for a week and then flew to London for a wintery day of shopping with GN&C. Early next morning Gareth took me to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar to France and then meet Tim on the train at Charles de Gaul airport en route to Marseille for another Stanford meeting. This time the students from the European centres put together talks on immigration issues in their respective countries of study abroad.

The view from our hotel - the new museum on the left, the old fort and the beautiful cathedral in the distance

 From Marseille we rented a car and drove to Vaison-la-Romaine to spend 5 days in Provence in wet and windy weather. Still we had fun dodging the rain, trying out different restaurants, taking day drives to some of the marvelous sights.

Tim in the rain on the Pont du Gard

Back home on Dec 1st for three weeks, being with friends, feeling rooted before taking off again. Life is definitely not dull!

Well, the year was not all travel. After three years of collecting, photographing, sorting, writing and editing I managed to finish a little Blurb book about my maternal grandparents Irene Kendrick & Thomas Smith. Next project is to finish writing up all the research about my great grandfather, John Garlick. I've enjoyed the field trips to England and Ontario these past few years, stepping back on the footprints of my ancestors. Now for the hard work.

Wishes for the season's best and a peaceful 2013.

Setting off on another adventure

Four months since my last post so here's a photo from our hike on Sunday to show that Tim and I are both thriving.

 

The months have flown. The Stanford Spring Quarter ended in a very wintry Cape Town in June with the usual fun dinner at the Africa Cafe. Next day Tim got onto a plane for California to be at the special award ceremony for one of his students from 2011 for her excellent research done in the Western Cape. While in the USA he visited his parents in Florida and came back to Cape Town in time to prepare for the big meeting in July, the Bing Overseas Studies Annual Directors' Meeting.

Each year this meeting takes place in a different centre, hence our travels these past few years to Oxford, Berlin, Paris and Santiago. This year it was Cape Town's turn. Tim and his staff planned for almost perfect weather, dry enough that the field trips were a great success. The meeting closed on Saturday June 15th with a lunch at Solms Delta where we took the students in January for their Welcome Dinner. 

The view across the vineyards at Solms Delta Wine Estate, Groote Drakenstein, Western Cape, South Africa.

Nan, Ayanda and Nathaniel came to see us a few times in our last week when we were staying at the Vineyard Hotel with the rest of the Directors and some spouses/partners. 

The Vineyard Hotel is definitely a big favourite of ours, being regulars at their Monday evening wine tasting where we've been introduced to some great vintages. And during the academic quarters we took four students there each week for dinner - delicious food and something special for all of us to look forward to. We get to know the students better and they get a break from dormitory food.

We flew back home on July 18th with a six hour layover at Heathrow where we saw Gareth & Cameron.

That same day (it's a long one) we stepped off the plane at San Francisco International airport.  I'm always amazed to find my luggage on the carousel having travelled all that way with clothes, books and the many possession I needed for six and a half months in Cape Town.

Being home has meant back to good music in our local pub, long hikes and lots of dinners with friends. 

Eric & Suzie Thompson and Paul Knight on bass - one of Paul's Sunday nights at the Station House Cafe, Point Reyes Station

But right now I am at SFO waiting for my flight to London, en route to Johannesburg for my niece, Polly McCabe's wedding to Chris Kriel. I'll spend 12 days in England. One night in London and then off to visit the ancestors and their descendents! More to follow....

Durban Field Trip & Kat & The Kings

I will start with Kat & The Kings, because I can still hear the music and visualise the inspirational dancing. Kat & The Kings has come home to Cape Town and is playing at the Fugard Theatre. Written by the amazing team of David Kramer and Taliep Petersen and first staged in 1995, the original production was invited to London and after a successful run there, went on to Broadway to further international acclaim. 

Lucky for us, Peter & Helen Bing support the Bing Stanford Cape Town Centre by sponsoring cultural events for the students and staff and Tuesday night, May 22, Kat & The Kings, was one of these. 

The Bings also send all the students and some lucky staff on a Field Trip each quarter; the latest took place last weekend, 18-20 May, leaving Cape Town for Durban at 11am Friday, returning 60 hours later on Sunday evening. So much to see, hear and do. We were picked up by Imraan, Langa and Shola of SIT (School for International Training: Durban - Social & Political Transformation) at Durban's new King Shaka airport north of the city. 

First stop, the Phansi museum and its collection of Kwa-Zulu-Natal beadwork, carved statues and artifacts, the most striking being the life-size puppets depicting the various dress and status of the men and women of some South African tribes. Soon we were back in the buses on our way to the Moses Mabhida stadium built for the 2010 soccer world cup with a clever design of a skycar to carry visitors to a viewing platform on the top.

After our 360 degree view of the Durban skyline, Tim and I left the group and headed for Chelsea Villa, a Durban B&B not far from the students' backpackers, The Happy Hippo. We checked in and met up again at the Happy Hippo for introductory talks by John Daniel & Imraan Buccus of SIT. Dinner at Ushaka Moyo at uShaka Marine World - fine food, lots of dancing - rounded off the day.

Saturday morning began with a tour of the striking Juma Mosjid Mosque on Dr Yusuf Dadoo St. Imraan talked about Islam and Muslim heritage in Durban. Afterwards we crossed the street and met our next guide, Richard Dobson of Asiye Etafuleni, at the entrance to the Victoria Street Market. We spent the next two hours walking about the vast expanse of interconnected stalls, with Richard explaining the history and significance along the way.

Lunch at the Little Gujarat vegetarian restaurant - most of us had the meal that has made Durban famous - Bunny Chow - a huge chunk of hollowed out white bread filled with delicious curry. Very yummy, very filling - I'd need to be very hungry to order it again!

Then it was time to take the students to their home stays in Cato Manor where they were to spend the night with a Zulu family. After seeing them all happily connected with their Zulu mama, Tim and I made our way back to our B&B for some R&R and a night out dining at the 9th Avenue Bistro run by the talented husband and wife team, Graham and Gina Neilson. Food was good, atmosphere too. Graham watches the tables from the open kitchen checking everyone is happy and Gina keeps the floor running very smoothly. Our waiter, Keric, paid just the right amount of attention. The only complaint I had was the price of a glass of their very average, and only, Sauvignon Blanc wine offering by the glass, Splattered Toad from Cape Point Vineyards. It cost as much as a bottle does in Cape Town. Obviously one is not meant to order wine by the glass at 9th Avenue Bistro. 

Sunday morning and it's time to collect the students from their home stays and meet Scott Couper at the Ghandi museum on the Inanda trail. I could fill many pages with all of Scott's accomplishments; suffice it to say that he gave up his one 'Sunday off' (he is a United Congregational church pastor) to take us on an incredible journey. First the museum, then Gandhi's house, on to the Inanda Seminary for girls where he is the Development Officer and his wife the chaplain. A quick tour of the school followed by lunch with some of the Seminary students after which we were back in the bus onward, to Groutville, and the Albert Luthuli museum, our last cultural stop. On the way back to the airport we looked in at the Ballito beach scene. Too cold for swimming but nice to be at one of the east coast's famous beaches.

Back to the airport and home again - photo album is here

We have our last "Dinner with the Stantons" this evening with three of the students and the resident assistant, Amy Herbertson. We're getting close to the end of the program (June 15) which is always sad.

Lots to catch up

First some photos

1 year old Cameron in our pool clad in full baby wetsuit while dad braves the April chilly water

Naz, Gareth and Cameron with Tim looking on from behind - More photos of Gareth's visit here.

Nathaniel turns 7. 3rd from the left with party friends, on his birthday cruise to Seal Island in Hout Bay. More photos here.

Stanford students still keep us busy with lots of fun functions.

Darling Brew at Pieter Dirk Uys's Evita se Perron, before the show Icons & Aikonas. From left, Rose, Irene, Sherry, Tim, Parth & Francisca

After the show - one time neighbours in Pinelands. For info on Pieter's work, go to his website

That covers highlights of April and May. March was spent wrapping up the first quarter and enjoying a two week break before the start of the second quarter during which Tim nipped off to a conference in Bali, and I stayed home.

The blog has been abandoned these past couple of months and I blame it on entirely on Tim’s ancestors and my inability to focus on anything else. Over the past 6 months I have met more than 2,000 people, dead and alive. I've become familiar with the lives of some incredible people and places. Too bad most are long gone and the places forever altered. Tim has a host of fascinating and sometimes famous ancestors.

Lucy Jane and her father, Luther Derwent

Part of the joy of tracing family is meeting descendents of long lost cousins. A couple of days ago a parcel arrived for me here in Cape Town, South Africa, from San Diego, USA with over 200 pages of Stanton genealogy from Tim’s 3^rd cousin once removed, Ruth Lewis. Some lovely personal stories from great aunts and uncles who took time to record their memories.

What I set out to do was trace Tim's 8 great grandparents and their families, and that has largely been done. I have often got sidetracked along the paths of some of his 16 great great grandparents, and filling in those details can be very consuming - they had so many children in those days!

I have to confess that many discoveries would not have been possible without the help of Tim’s 5^th cousin once removed who lives in England and is related to Tim’s mother's maternal grandfather, Luther Derwent pictured here on the left with his daughter, Tim's grandmother, Lucy Jane Derwent.

The week after Gareth, Naz and Cameron left, my sister came to visit for a week and we enjoyed loads of outings and plenty of time to chat, plus two movies. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Iron Lady.

To end, here's a photo of a recent "Dinner with the Stantons" taken by a waiter at the Vineyard hotel where we dine every week with four students, meeting them in small groups. We love the evenings, the chance to chat informally, and also to hear their stories.

02 May 2012 - Tim, Sherry, Allie, Irene, Hahn and Nayeli at the Vineyard Hotel

60 hour Field Trip to Johanesburg

Sandwiched between 6:30 am on Friday Feb 9th and 6:30 pm Sunday Feb 11th, sleeping two nights at Die Agterplaas B&B for the students and Heidi Holland's The Melville House for the staff.

We flew Mango airlines to Lanseria, visited the Sterkfontein Caves, the show Umoja at the Victory Theater, Constitution Hill (Womens' Jail, Mens' Jail and Court), Soweto's Hector Pietersen Museum, Apartheid museum, Vootrekker monument and the Sammy Marks museum.

Some photos

Dinner with the Stantons and a London Grandson

13 Feb 2012 - Our weekly evening meal at the Vineyard Hotel with four Stanford students studying in Cape Town.

From the left, Tim, Irteza, Matt, Sherry, Tadeo and Jessica, photo thanks to Irteza's camera and our waiter Bradley

And how about this for a cutie on Valentine's Day

Cameron Lloyd in London

Kistenbosch Concert and Cape Town Grandchildren

Having fun at Kirstenbosch one Sunday evening - photo by Irteza Binte-Farid.

With Prudence Carter, Stanford Faculty in Residence, at the end of a musical evening.

Picnic at Kirstenbosch - an evening organised by Prudence with most of the students and a picnic supplied by Lindi Kriel, the students' wonderful caterer.

Photos of my gorgeous grandchildren at our pool

Nathaniel

Ayanda

 We set off tomorrow for our Field trip to Johannesburg with the students - loads of culture and learning for 60 odd hours - back Sunday evening.

Cape Town Stanford Program First Quarter 2012

Year 3 of the Cape Town Stanford program is well under way. I posted photos to a Picasa album of the Orientation lunch, 9 Jan, and our Welcome Dinner on Saturday, 14 Jan with appropriate explanatory comments. The latter evening was a lot of fun and educational too.

Those were the highlights of the past two weeks. We are still without a phone and have limited internet connection, paying way too much money for bandwidth, cursing any sort of automatic updates even when they are crucial to the integrity of my computer. So this blog is brief!